London Walks - Tower Hill, Bank, Museum of London, St. Paul's Cathedral

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Walk Two Image For the walking tour listed below you may/will need a good map of the city (see our choice in essentials m-o)

Duration: 4-5 hours

Our third walk begins at Tower Hill on the edge of The City of London. Although not the prettiest part of town, the area is nonetheless home to one of London's most famous tourist attractions - The Tower of London (which lies just south of nearby Tower Hill Tube station). Dating back to 1066, The Tower is not only home to the Royal Crown Jewels but London's famous regally attired Beefeaters (whose job it is to guard them).

Construction of the original fortifications began with the centrepiece castle keep - The White Tower. Built from 1080 onwards by William the Conqueror, it was initially intended to serve as a simple watchtower thus helping to consolidate his hold on the English throne. As the Tower was purposely sited to defend against a waterborne assault on the Thames, it offered strategic protection to London and its valuable port facilities.

In later centuries, the Tower was extended by successive monarchs to create the imposing fortress that you see today. Having also served as a prison, a place of execution (two of Henry VIII’s seven wives were beheaded here) and the Royal Mint, the Tower has a long and diverse history.

Visitors will also see a number of ravens (with their wings clipped) within the castle grounds. Legend has it that if the ravens ever fly away (hence the need to restrain them) the White Tower will collapse.

Although the first part of our walk could take us west to London bridge, there's arguably little to see here other than Monument which is covered elsewhere in our guide. Instead, we'll head north up to Fenchurch Street and then along to Leadenhall Street where you'll find the church of St. Katherine Cree (no strict route applies for this part of the walk; either use Mark Lane or Mincing Lane which passes Minster Court or take a slightly longer route along the Minories towards Aldgate).

Most famously associated with Hans Holbein (the much revered renaissance painter) who is said to be buried here, the church is medieval in origin. However, the present building, which dates back to the 1620s (when it was rebuilt by Inigo Jones under the reign of Charles I) is very much Classical in style. Although, having survived the Great Fire of London, it has been subsequently remodelled over the years, a visit here is worthwhile if solely for the church's stained-glass Catherine-wheel window.

Also nearby is St. Botolph's (a much later mid 18th-century structure) and Bevis Marks Synagogue. The latter is certainly worth a look, not only because it happens to be the country's oldest surviving synagogue, but for the fact it also has a lovely restored interior (the work was undertaken following the City of London terrorist bombing in 1992). Incorporating twelve pillars, each symbolising the different tribes of Israel, the ornate ladies' gallery is matched only by the synagogue's magnificent chandeliers.

Heading west along Leadenhall Street we next come to the wonderfully avant-garde Lloyd's Building. Designed by Richard Rogers in 1986, the intention behind the structure was to allow the public visual access into what has always been regarded as one of the most exclusive (and secret) City institutions. Impressive by day, the Lloyd's building is even more spectacular by night thanks to a combination of electric-blue lighting and gleaming stainless steel. Although the reputation of this leading financial company suffered badly during the 90s, it nonetheless serves as fitting HQ building for a company whose history dates back to 1688.

Also leading off Lime Street is London's famous Leadenhall Market. Designed by Horace Jones in 1881, it stands on the site of an original 14th-century market which was largely destroyed by the Great fire in 1666. Jones' design, which features Victorian cast-iron work and an elegant arched glass roof, is not only a favoured haunt of City workers at lunchtimes, but an extremely popular visit for tourists too. And, if you're in need of refreshment (or lunch) then the market's Lamb and Flag pub is well-worth considering. Just get there early though as the place fills up very quickly at lunchtime!

Making our way down Cornhill (either via Gracechurch Street or Leadenhall Street) we now pass St. Michael's church. Designed originally by Sir Christopher Wren, it stands on the site of a Roman forum and dates back (as a place of worship) to the 11th-century. Besides the extremely loud organ, of particular interest are the wooden sculptures by Grinling Gibbons which include the 'Scapegoat' and 'Charity and the Pelican'.

Further along Cornhill we next come to the Royal Exchange and Bank of England (on Threadneedle Street). The Exchange, which has twice been destroyed by fire since first being built in 1571, was established to challenge the European domination of the Bourse market-place in Antwerp. Its latest incarnation, built by Sir William Tite in 1842, stands opposite The Bank of England whilst also being flanked by Mansion House.

The Bank of England, of course, is the central bank of the United Kingdom, with responsibility for issuing bank notes as well as making the country's interest rate decisions. Affectionately known as the 'Old Lady of Threadneedle Street', its history dates back to 1694, although the bank moved to its current location in 1734. The more recent past has seen it nationalised after World War II, and in the last Parliament gain operational independence under the present Labour government of Tony Blair.

Originally established to raise money for overseas military campaigns, the Bank of England later become the official banker to the British Government, before eventually assuming the role of banker to the UK banking system in general. As well as managing the UK's foreign exchange and gold reserves, the bank also holds those of 50 other central banks around the world. An interesting museum that details the history and workings of the bank is also open free of charge to members of the public.

Last of the trio is Mansion House, which serves as the official residence of the Lord Mayor of London. Designed by architect George Dance in 1753, it took a total of thirteen years to build, whereupon the first Lord Mayor, Sir Crispin Gascoigne took up residence. With a suitably fitting neo-classical design, complete with a Corinthian style portico and elaborate exterior plasterwork, it not only provides the Lord Mayor with living quarters and office space, by also serves as the venue for sumptuous ceremonial banquets. The magnificent Egyptian Hall, so named because it closely resembles the style of those used in Egypt (during Roman times) is most famously used for the Chancellor of the Exchequer's annual speech to the 'great and good' of the City's financial organisations.

However, despite its unquestioned splendour, the only opportunity to see Mansion House is on a periodic pre-arranged tour (as the building is normally not open to the public).

Our next stop before visiting St. Paul's Cathedral is Guildhall (situated on Gresham Street). As the administrative centre of civic government in the City for London for well over 800 years, the Guildhall has a long, turbulent history, having been damaged in the Great Fire of London, bombed during the Blitz and horribly modernised in the early 1970s.

Derived from the Anglo-Saxon word "gild" meaning "for payment" very little remains of the original structure, aside from the porch and crypt (the latter of which can be seen as part of a guided tour). With origins dating back to 1411, it also happens to be the only remaining secular building in London to pre-date the Great Fire of 1666.

However, the Guildhall is not just a place of symbolic interest, as the building's Great Hall continues to play host to sumptuous state and civic banquets. The interior, which features monuments to national heroes such as Wellington, Lord Nelson and Churchill, is also used for the Presentation of the Freedom of the City (in which the new Lord Mayor and Sheriffs of London are annually elected).

On the same site, the new Guildhall Art Gallery (the original of which was burnt down after a German air raid in May 1941) displays over 250 works including a few by famous artists such as John Constable, John Millais and Dante Gabriel Rossetti. As well as organising temporary exhibitions, the Gallery also contains a small gift-shop with prints of the works displayed.

During a visit, you're unlikely to miss what is undoubtedly the centrepiece of the gallery, John Singleton Copley’s The Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar, September 1782 (which had a double-height wall built specially to house the picture).

By carrying on down Gresham Street we pass Goldsmiths' Hall before arriving at the corner of Foster Lane. If you're pushed for time, then take a left-turn to head towards St. Paul's or, if you're interested in learning more about the history of London walk to the end of Gresham Street, then turn right onto Aldersgate Street (which leads to the Museum of London). The Museum, which, over recent years has deservedly earned the reputation as being among the best (and most imaginatively put together) exhibitions in London, houses over a million objects and artifacts with displays of Roman relics accompanied by exhibitions covering medieval, Tudor and Victorian England.

With collections neatly divided into London's early and more recent history, highlights include the Lord Mayor's coach, the mock-up of a Newgate prison cell and a section which depicts typical Victorian dwellings, shops and pubs. Along with the museum's temporary exhibitions (which change every 6 months or so), a visit here is made all the more rewarding by free entry.

Of course, no walk around The City is complete without a trip to St. Paul's Cathedral. As our guide already provides a comprehensive description for the cathedral (see sights page 1) we have, for the sake of brevity, chosen not to cover it in detail here.

Upon leaving St. Paul's we carry on down Ludgate Hill passed the church of St. Martin-within-Ludgate and on to Ludgate Circus. Although not part of our route, you can, if time allows, also take in the nearby Central Criminal Court known (as the Old Bailey). We do, of course, recommend you do this as a visitor rather than a defendant!

Crossing Ludgate Circus we now head east along Fleet Street. Until the mid-1980s Fleet Street had been the traditional home of literary and journalistic London for well over 250 years. It began in 1500 when William Caxton's Dutch apprentice, Wynkyn de Worde, moved the company's printing presses here from Westminster (in order to be nearer both the courts and clergy). In 1702, London's first daily newspaper The Courant was issued from Fleet Street, which in turn, spawned a trend that led to all the major national newspapers setting up offices and presses in the area.

However, the dominance of the press on Fleet Street ended in 1985 when Eddie Shah set up the now defunct colour Tabloid Today using much cheaper (and more versatile) computer technology. However, it was media-mogul Rupert Murdoch who finally undermined the printers' unions, setting up his "Fortress Wapping" to the east of London (and taking The Times, News of the World and Sun with him). Despite a bitter struggle between the two parties, Murdoch triumphed, paving the way for other publications to follow suit.

Today only Reuters remains, occupying the Edward Lutyens designed building at no. 85. Also worth seeing are the former offices of The Daily Telegraph (at no. 135) and the Daily Express (affectionately known as the "Black Lubyanka") - both fine Art Deco buildings in their own right.

As well as being the former base for many London newspapers, Fleet Street is also home to 'urban legend' Sweeney Todd (who is said to have set up a barbers shop just a short walk away from the Royal Courts of Justice). Of course, the "demon barber" who's murderous acts included turning anyone who wanted "a real close shave" into high-protein meat pies, was never punished for his crimes. Must have been the trap door....

Finally, our walk ends with a trip to the former home of Dr Johnson - the 18th-century scholar who is credited with publishing the first definitive English Dictionary. The museum (situated on Gough Square, just off Fleet Street) attempts to recreate his workplace with period furnishings and etchings, along with a 'classroom like' attic where six scribes helped him to compile the dictionary. As well as providing valuable insight into his life, the museum is also a nicely restored example of an upmarket 17th-century home.

And that completes our third walk!

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London Guided Walks - Tower Hill to Fleet Street (via Bank, Guildhall, Museum of London and St. Paul's)