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As home to more than 7 million people, the English
capital is a vibrant, ever changing city, boasting not only an eclectic mix of old and modern
architecture, but superb monuments and attractions, an abundance of cultural riches and a
continually improving art, entertainment and gastronomic scene. Stretching more than 30 miles from
east to west along the ancient lifeblood of the city - the River Thames - London is a made up of a
diverse set of neighbourhoods, each with a common bond and history, but also divided by
multicultural, architectural and geographical differences. Such richness makes London a unique
place to live and work. A city that can inspire and divide, it is all things to all people, except
of course, dull or humdrum. For this, after all, is London Town!
Belgravia
Located just south of Knightsbridge, Belgravia has been the home of
noblemen and aristocrats since Thomas Cubitt first developed the area on reclaimed marshland in the
mid-19th century. Wonderfully proportioned Georgian houses dominate the long, wide streets here,
serving not only as stylish dwellings for the rich and famous but also national embassies and
residences for their diplomats. With its heyday coming during the reign of Queen Victoria, it
still retains an air of exclusivity with chic hotels such as The Lanesborough,
Halkin and
Topham's
all emphasizing Belgravia's upmarket leanings.
Be sure to check out Belgrave Square, the centrepiece and focus of the
neighbourhood, while due south, the residential areas of Cadogan Place and Eaton
Square are pleasant places in which to take a stroll. To the east lies Victoria Station, while the fashionable shopping
districts of Chelsea, Sloane Square and the King's Road are also within easy
reach.
Bloomsbury
Long recognised as the academic heart of London, Bloomsbury is the historic
home of poets, writers and scholars, including Virginia Woolf and Charles Dickens. In the area
around Gower Street, you'll find the University of London, together with some of London's
finest bookstores, while the oldest recognized museum in the World - the British Museum - lies to the west on Great Russell
Street. Since its inception in 1753, the institution has managed to build an unrivalled
collection of exhibits from the ancient world, many of them gifts from wealthy collectors. Stunning
displays highlight the civilizations of Greece, Rome, Egypt (the collection of Mummies is simply
awe inspiring) and the Orient, while artefacts include such revered items as the Elgin Marbles -
involved in an ongoing cultural tug-of-war between the British and Greek Governments - and the
Rosetta Stone (the key to translating hieroglyphics).
At the heart of Bloomsbury is Russell
Square. As the largest and grandest of London's Georgian squares, it is famously associated
with T.S. Eliot who worked at a London publishing house located at No. 24. However, the main focal
point here is the imposing Russell Hotel, which dominates the square's entire eastern side.
Victorian in style, the hotel (which opened in 1900) is an ornate, terracotta coloured affair,
complete with cherubs, colonnades and a swanky lobby and bar area inside.
Chelsea
With the King's Road serving as Chelsea's major artery, the district,
which lies to the southwest of Belgravia, has a natural starting point (for shopping
excursions at least) at Sloane Square. Featuring the elegant, but somewhat overshadowed Venus
fountain by Gilbert Ledward, it's actually the Peter Jones department store most people head
towards when emerging from Sloane Square Tube.
Although hotels are not found here in great abundance, boutiques, antiques
shops, restaurants and bars certainly are! Traditionally a favourite haunt for writers, artists and
bon viveurs (including Oscar Wilde) it was also a centre for fashion in the 1960s, with Mary Quant
responsible for the ground breaking "Chelsea look", while in the 70s Vivienne Westwood had a
presence here at 430 King's Road with 'Let's Rock' and later 'Too Fast to Live Too Young to
Die'.
In fact, 60s icons have trouble staying away from Chelsea, with Michael
Caine,
Cher and Eric Clapton, all having residences or connections to businesses in the area, including
luxury apartments in and around Chelsea Harbour. The marina complex also incorporates the
five-star (all-suite) Wydnham
London, which features the
exquisite Eastern influenced Aquasia restaurant.
Covent Garden & The Strand
While the famous flower, fruit and vegetable market has long since relocated
to Nine Elms, Covent Garden still maintains its trading links, today serving as one of London's
trendiest shopping districts. With lively restaurants, pubs, and cafes, quirky shops and live
street entertainment centred on the Piazza, the area is a huge draw for tourists and locals
alike.
The restored marketplace is a must visit, as is the Punch & Judy pub on a warm summer's day. Elsewhere,
Theatreland and the London Opera House are just
a stone's throw away, while restaurants such as Rules,
Joe
Allen and Belgo Centraal are just a
few of the many dining options available.
To the south the Strand, which runs parallel to the Thames, houses a
number of theatres (such as the Adelphi and Vaudeville), along with the luxury
Savoy hotel, while head east towards Aldwych and you'll find
the impressive Somerset House with three major museums
inside, namely the Hermitage Rooms, Courtauld Gallery and Gilbert Collection.
The City of London
The City is London's historic centre and comprises the original square mile,
which traditionally, has been the centre of trade and commerce since Roman times. This still holds
true, with the London Stock Exchange, corporate banks and other financial institutions (such
as Lloyd's of London) holding court here even today. Although fire devastated the City in
1666, the area served as a catalyst for rebirth of London, eventually providing us with
architectural gems such as St. Paul's Cathedral, Mansion House,
Leadenhall
Market and Tower Bridge. Today, part of the City also
plays host to two of London's most cherished cultural institutions - namely the Museum of London and
Barbican Centre. Also on the City's outskirts is the
famous Tower of London. Having served as a prison, a place
of execution (two of Henry VIII's seven wives were beheaded here) and the Royal Mint, the Tower has
a long, but not always glowing history.
Lunching or drinking at one of the area's historic pubs such as Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese (145 Fleet Street) is also a must.
Alternatively, the City has a good number of trendy restaurants such as the Baltic Exchange
and Coq d'Argent, while moneyed young suits spend lunchtimes and evenings at local wine bars
such as Balls Brothers on Lime Street.
For further information on the City of London pop into the Information Centre
at St. Paul's Churchyard, EC4, (Tel: 020 7332 1456) which is open Monday- Friday 9am to 5pm and
Saturday 9am to midday.
Clerkenwell
Boasting London's oldest church (St. Bartholomew-the-Great) which dates back
to 1123, Clerkenwell also has a rich political history. For it was here that John Stuart Mill's
radical socialist 'London Patriotic Club' was established, while the house at No. 37A
Clerkenwell Green also saw Vladimir Ilich Lenin edit his publication Iskra there, with Marx
frequently taking coffee in a shop located in the same building.
Today, the area is known primarily for its restaurants and clubs, with
Fabric being a London
favourite, while eateries such
as St John provide no-nonsense, traditional English
cooking. Alternatively, sample a full English breakfast - with pint - at Smithfield Market's Cock Tavern or the late Victorian Fox and
Anchor hostelry (just opposite Smithfield's entrance).
Fitzrovia
As an unloved, but nonetheless important part of London, Fitzrovia occupies
the area between Camden (to the North) and the City of Westminster. Bounded by
Oxford Street, Great Portland Street, Gower Street and Euston Road,
Bloomsbury is just a short walk away to the east, while Soho
and the West End are entered by heading south to Tottenham Court Road (widely seen as the
electronics capital of Central London) and Charing Cross Road. The most famous, albeit
quirky looking monument here is the 188 metre high BT Tower, built in the 60s, and still
known as the Post Office Tower. Nearby, both Charlotte Street and Great Titchfield
Street have a pleasant villagey feel to them, with the biggest draw being restaurants such as
Passione and Pied á Terre, along with the
stylish, but expensive Charlotte Street (boutique)
hotel.
Holborn
The traditional seat of the London's legal establishment, Holborn or Ho-burn
as it was originally known, has a distinctive character of its own, with buildings and institutions
that, on a cold, misty evening, could still be part of Victorian London. Indeed, the Original
London Walks Company operates two tours around Holborn, the first being 'Legal and Illegal London'
and a second called 'Ghosts, Gaslight and Guinness'.
The Old Bailey is, of course,
Holborn's most famous landmark. As London's Central Criminal Court, the building has long been the
place where the country's most serious legal cases are heard. Moreover, until it was demolished in
1902, the site was also home to Newgate Prison where convicted felons were beheaded or hanged in
the street. Interestingly enough, it was Newgate that replaced Tyburn Gallows (at Marble
Arch) as London's principal public-execution site. Eventually, because of the sheer number of
locals who turned out for this gruesome spectator sport (when acts of violence and robbery also
routinely took place), hangings were carried out within the prison's walls.
And while the death penalty has long since been abolished, you can watch legal
proceedings at the Old Bailey from the visitors' gallery. Some reminders of the site's historic
past are still in evidence though, as judges and lawyers wear traditional wigs and enter the court
carrying posies. Although only a ritual today, it was necessary in the days of Newgate Prison to
help disguise the smell of rotting corpses. And if you fancy a swift pint, head for the Viaduct
Tavern (126 Newgate Street) which also stands on land part occupied by the old prison.
Kensington
Known primarily for the royal residence at Kensington Palace (home to the late Princess Margaret), the
borough lies to the west of Hyde Park, also extending south towards Earls Court and
fashionable Chelsea. Such royal associations have long given Kensington an air of
superiority, with fashionable shops, chic restaurants and multi-million pound townhouses being the
rule, rather than the exception. Porsches and Mercedes Benz vehicles also abound along
Kensington High Street and Kensington Church Street where, in the great scheme of
things, parking tickets are regarded as a minor inconvenience to be tolerated when doing the
shopping.
Residential South Kensington, which boasts some fashionable townhouse
and boutique hotels, is nicknamed "museumland" as the triumvirate of the Natural History Museum,
Victoria and Albert Museum, and Science Museum can all be found here. In fact, the area,
which is regarded as one of the finest examples of urban planning in London, also contains the
grandiose Royal Albert Hall.
Head due south and you'll eventually hit Earls Court, a backpackers
paradise which is not only home to a large Australian community, but row upon row of cheap B &
B's and budget hotels. Known also as a youth and gay destination, Earls Court also attracts a real
mix of souls to its pubs, wine bars, and coffeehouses at night, while good Tube connections (and
the exhibition halls at Earls Court/Olympia) make it a busy place all year round.
Just across the Old Brompton Road is West Brompton of which the
area's focal point is Brompton Cemetery, a pleasant, flower-laden oasis, in an otherwise
congested and slightly grubby part of town.
Knightsbridge
Synonymous with Harrods
shopping, Knightsbridge is a centrally located, upmarket district of London. Close to the West
End and bordered by Hyde Park, Belgravia lies to the south, while "museumland" is
just a short ride southwest along Brompton Road. Home also to Harvey Nichols and other big name stores such as
FCUK, Knightsbridge also offers swanky restaurants and cafés, together with first-class
accommodation by way of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
Of course, while Harrods may have lost its royal warrants (the ultimate seal
of approval for purveyors of fine goods) the store, which stocks everything from Gucci bags to
£5000 food hampers, is still considered by tourists as a "must see" for any London visit.
Just five minutes walk away you'll also find Beauchamp Place a quiet,
charming shopping street, which is lined with stylish boutiques and trendy restaurants (such as San
Lorenzo and Maroush).
Ideally situated for onward travel to the West End and
Theatreland, Knightsbridge is great for an afternoon's shopping before taking in dinner or a
performance in and around Covent Garden.
Marylebone
Most famously known for the station of the same name, along with Madame Tussaud's and the area around Baker Street (where
the fictitious detective Sherlock Holmes resided), Marylebone is a small enclave that lies to the
west of Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia. Bordered by Regent's Park to the north and Oxford Street to the south, the
area is a pleasant collection of residential streets, including the impressive Portland
Place and Cavendish Square. Arguably, the best find of all is Marylebone High
Street, a charming, tranquil shopping area centred on Gee's Court, James Street,
St Christopher's Place and Chiltern Street. Housing some lovely independent shops,
it's a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street (even though West End shopping is
just 5 minutes away). One of London's finest restaurants - Auberge - is also located here,
as is the historic Barley Mow pub at 8 Dorset Street.
Regent's Park, which boasts a boating lake, bandstand and tennis courts also
features, during the summer, an open-air theatre staging Shakespearean productions. A must-see on
any visit is The Queen Mary Rose Garden, which as well as being an extremely idyllic and
relaxing spot, is a riot of colour in July and August.
Marylebone has also become increasingly well known for its extensive range of
townhouse B&Bs. Covering every price range, they are generally of a high standard and enjoy
good Tube connections via Baker Street, Great Portland St. Marylebone and Regent's
Park.
Mayfair
Unsurpassed in terms of sheer opulence, Mayfair is the area lying between
Piccadilly, Hyde Park, Oxford Street and Regent Street. Chock-full of
luxury hotels, exclusive car dealerships, expensive restaurants and members only drinking clubs,
it’s also home to the American Embassy, the Hilton
Park Lane and trendy hair salons such as Nicky
Clarke's. Start in Berkeley Square and you'll find Jack Barclay's Bentley showroom - an excuse
if ever there was one to drool on a shopfront window. Nearby, No.48 was also the childhood home of
Britain's most famous wartime Prime Minister Winston Churchill.
Grosvenor Square is where you'll find the American Embassy, along with
a statue of Franklin D. Roosevelt, while Mount Street (which runs east-west from Bond Street
to Park Lane) contains a number of gourmet food shops including R Allen & Co, the best butchers
in Mayfair.
Also worth seeing is Shepherd Market, the place from which Mayfair took
its name (an annual fair was held on this site) which today, is made up of lively bars, pubs,
restaurants and upmarket boutiques.
For a sophisticated, but wallet-busting shopping trip, take a walk along to
New Bond Street, while on Park Lane you'll find some of the most luxurious
accommodation in London courtesy of the Dorchester and
Grosvenor
House hotels.
Piccadilly Circus & Leicester Square
Having coined its name from the fashionable ruffed collar of the 17th-century
(the "picadil"), the Circus is widely recognised - perhaps wrongly - as being the heart and soul of
London. Certainly from a geographical point of view it's pretty central, while the bright neon
lights, red routemaster buses and the statue of Eros are familiar sites having adorned millions of
holiday postcards. Leading off from the area is the grand shopping promenade of Regent
Street, Theatreland in the form of Shaftesbury Avenue and the busy thoroughfare of
Piccadilly itself.
Worth seeing is the early 19th-century Burlington Arcade, a pleasant
collection of upmarket tailors and food shops, while just down the road is the impressive Le Meridien Piccadilly hotel, complete with a
first-class health club in the form of Champneys.
We have to admit to not liking Leicester
Square very much. Noisy, crowded and rather unpleasant at night, it has improved in recent
years (although that in itself is not difficult). Playing host to a number of pubs, clubs and
eateries, as well as the Radisson Edwardian Hampshire
hotel, it's also home to two of the largest multiplex cinemas in Central London - the large, but
uninspiring Warner Bros (being the newest) and the recently revamped Leicester Square
Odeon where British film premieres are often held.
With countless street entertainers vying for the public’s attention
during the summer, Leicester Square does take on somewhat of a European feel. Although, with acts
ranging from 'Stars in their Eyes' wannabes to the downright awful, no one sticks around for too
long. Be aware that pickpockets also operate here.
St. James's
Within its confines lies England's most famous address, Buckingham Palace, while St. James's is also known for the
tranquil park of the same name, Green Park, The Mall (the ceremonial route used by the royal
family on state occasions) and Pall Mall.
Running from Piccadilly to Victoria Street, and from
Haymarket to Whitehall, St James's was also once the focal point for the many
'Gentlemen's Clubs' (such as the Reform Club), which influenced both society life and politics
during the 18th century. Centred on Pall Mall and Jermyn Street they were, to a
certain extent glorified drinking and gambling dens, although other shenanigans (including the rise
and fall of government politicians) were discussed and plotted behind closed doors.
St. James's is also known for the many bespoke tailors shops on Jermyn
Street, together with the world-renowned Fortnum and Mason department store at 181
Piccadilly (known primarily for its range of fine foods and a proud heritage that dates back to
1705).
Soho
Located right in the heart of Central London, Soho has for well over 30 years
epitomised the spirit of cool London. Many tourists will have heard of Soho (or South Holborn),
often associating the area with sex, drugs and sleaze. True, Soho does have its problems, most
recently with the influx to the area of drug pushers. And, although its still the centre of
London's sex industry, many of area's seedy porn stores and strip joints are long gone, replaced
instead by trendy bars, coffee shops and restaurants.
Stretching from Regent Street (to the
West) through to the Charing Cross Road and from Oxford Street down to Piccadilly Circus,
Soho was first established in the 17th century and quickly became one of the capital's most
populated districts. The area's rich history can also be attributed in part, to the large numbers
of immigrants who settled here. In the 18th century it was the Huguenots from France, while more
recently, Italians, Greeks and Maltese has all established closely-knit neighbourhoods. What's
more, Soho has also been home to many famous writers, artists and musicians who have taken
inspiration from the bohemian, vibrant atmosphere that exists in this part of town. To the south,
lies bustling Chinatown which serves as both a thoroughfare to Leicester Square and a
tourist attraction in its own right.
While 60s nostalgia will lead many to Soho's world famous Carnaby Street (no doubt international man of mystery Austin
Powers was spawned here by a goldmember), many of the area's most fashionable haunts are centred on
Berwick, Wardour, Dean and Frith streets. Indeed, it's after dark that
Soho really comes alive. The area around Old Compton Street is popular both with the gay community
and theatregoers stopping for pre-show drinks, while posh nosh can be had at any number of Soho's
world-class restaurants including Quo Vadis,
L'Escargot and the Grill Room. Clubbers are spoilt for choice too, with Bar Rumba
being just one of the more established local venues. And, for those spilling out onto Soho's
streets in the early hours, the ubiquitous Bar Italia on
Frith Street (which has been immortalised in the song of the same name by pop band Pulp) serves
doses of super-strong espresso until 5am.
Westminster
As the seat of British government since work on the original Palace of
Westminster began in the mid-11th century (for the English King, Edward the Confessor), the
Houses of Parliament dominate the Thames embankment to the east of St. James's
Park.
Famously, it was here in 1605 that Guy Fawkes and his co-conspirators failed
in their attempt to blow up the King and Parliament in what has historically become known as the
'Gunpowder plot'. The event is remembered on 5th November each year on fireworks night (a.k.a. Guy
Fawkes night) with large displays in many public parks. The centrepiece of these events is normally
a huge bonfire on which an effigy of Guy Fawkes is placed and burnt.
A terrible fire in 1834 destroyed most of the Palace (apart from the
Westminster Hall and the Jewel Tower) and the Gothic style structure that you see today is mainly
the work of the architect Charles Barry. The familiar bell tower, known to Londoners and tourists
alike as Big Ben, was constructed as part of the rebuilding.
Elsewhere, Westminster Abbey is
regarded as one of the "must see" sights for visitors to London, being known across the world as
the setting for the coronations of British Kings and Queens (and the eventual resting-place for a
number of them).
Over the years, it has also been the setting for Royal weddings and other
elaborate ceremonies, while most recently, it was associated with the funeral and remembrance
service for Diana, Princess of Wales. Her untimely death on 31 August 1997 triggered an outpouring
of emotion and grief rarely seen (or associated) with the normally reserved, stiff upper-lipped
British.
Just off Whitehall you'll also find Downing Street and No 10. With the building's famous black
front door guarded by a traditional London "Bobby", it has been home to the British premier since
1732 when King George II gave the then incumbent, Robert Walpole the building as a gift.
Within the confines of Westminster you'll also find Victoria Station
and the nearby bus/coach terminus (of the same
name), which offers services within the UK and to/from Europe. Hotels are plentiful in this part of
town, although some, particularly around the train station itself are of poor quality. Therefore,
do your research beforehand and stick to lodging rated by the AA, RAC or English Tourist Council if
you can.
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