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Broad Sanctuary, SW1, Tube: Westminster,
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Adjacent to Westminster Abbey is Dean's Yard, a private, secluded square belonging to the
Dean and Chapter of Westminster. As well as providing a useful short cut from the Abbey to
Tufton Street,
the square's picturesque medieval buildings house one of the most prestigious colleges in the
country, the ancient Westminster School.
With origins dating back to 1179, (when Pope Alexander III instructed the
Benedictine monks of Westminster Abbey to provide a charity school in the area), the church
dependant school managed to survive the religious upheaval caused by Henry VIII's dissolution of
the monasteries, eventually being awarded royal patronage by his daughter, Elizabeth I in 1560.
Buildings are not open to the public, although Dean's Yard does make for a
pleasant detour if you're visiting Westminster Abbey.
48 Doughty Street, WC1N 2LX, Tel: 020 7405 2127, Website: www.dickensmuseum.com, Open: 10am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun (last admission 4:30pm), Admission: £5 adults, £4 students and seniors, £3
children, £14 family ticket (2 adults and up to 5 children), Tube: Chancery Lane/Russell
Square,
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Although at one time or another, Charles Dickens lived at fifteen different properties in London,
48 Doughty Street is the only address to have survived intact (much less be turned into a museum).
Having moved in after his marriage to Catherine Hogarth, it was here that famous works including
'Oliver Twist', 'Nicholas Nickleby' and the 'Pickwick Papers' were completed between 1837 and
1839.
Acquired by the Dickens fellowship in 1923 (who saved the building from
demolition), it has now been restored to its original Regency style. With many of the rooms laid
out exactly as they were then, the museum displays memorabilia such as manuscripts and first
editions of his work, along with letters and the earliest known portrait of Dickens (painted by his
aunt in 1830).
Tube:
Canada Water/Canary Wharf
As a port of strategic importance since Roman times, the London riverside has long been associated
with the movement of goods such as tea, coffee and spices to other parts of the country (and indeed
the rest of the world via the Thames Estuary). However, the success of the quays around London
Bridge from the 16th century onwards, frequently meant there was little or no space for ships to
unload their valuable cargos. And, although many shipping companies employed smaller boats to
transfer goods upriver, the chaos ensured that significant quantities would either be stolen or
delayed for unreasonable periods.
Even though laws were eventually introduced to ease congestion by controlling
the movement and mooring of ships at the Port, the situation grew steadily worse as trade levels
increased. It was only during the early 19th century that big players such as the West India
Company finally decided to build enclosed cargo docks (with huge perimeter walls to deter thieves).
By allowing ships to moor next to their own warehouses, the docks became a huge success, spawning a
wave of similar docks including the famous East India dock. This period of growth continued right
up to the early 1920s with docks such as the Royal Victoria, Albert and King George V all built
further downstream.
However, after World War II, increased competition from the railways (combined
with the use of larger cargo ships) meant trade at the docks began to dry up. In particular, the
opening of the huge container port at Tilbury in the 1960s spelt the death-knell for London's
traditional riverside docks, with the accelerated decline continuing until their eventual closure
in the 70s and early 80s.
Although few politicians and business analysts thought it would be possible to
regenerate the area, the boom period of the 80s served as a catalyst for the then Thatcher
government to encourage investment here. With a single agency given far-reaching powers to
regenerate the area (the London Docklands Development Corporation), incentives such as preferential
business rates and 100% tax relief on capital expenditure paved the way for projects such as Canary
Wharf, London City Airport and the Docklands Light Railway. Covering over eight square miles (and
stretching over 6 miles from east to west) the area straddles parts of Southwark, Newham and Tower
Hamlets.
For tourists, the most interesting areas to visit are:
Canary Wharf
(Website: www.canarywharf.co.uk) - Previously dominated by the 50-storey Canada Tower,
the building now has stiff competition by way of two new skyscrapers, the HSBC building (8 Canada
Square) and the Citi Group/Saloman Smith Barney building. Although both are actually eight storeys
lower than Canada Tower, the height differential between them is barely noticeable from a
distance.
As well as being the most well-known business area in London Docklands, Canary
Wharf is also home to a number of well-laid out retail areas, including Cabot Place and Canada
Place. With a striking resemblance to the underground shopping areas of Toronto (which is certainly
no bad thing) each centre includes big name fashion stores such as Gap, French Connection and
Hackett, as well as bars, restaurants and smaller book/music stores.
With a number of public open spaces, including Canada Square Park and Columbus
Courtyard, it's also a pleasant place to explore, although at weekends (when most office staff
aren't working) it can feel a little empty.
Good transport links also ensure that Canary Wharf is easily accessible either by the
Docklands Light Railway (from Bank station) or the Underground's Jubilee line extension.
West India Quay
Opened on the 27th August 1802, West India Quay was, at the time, the largest
structure of its kind anywhere in the world. Established by Robert Milligan, Chairman of the West
India Dock Company, the warehouses here were primarily used for sugar storage (right up until the
1930s). However, bombing during WWII reduced much of the site to rubble, with Warehouse No.2 (which
is now Grade 1 listed) being one of the few buildings to survive intact. More recently, the quay
has been converted into plush apartments, with shops and the new Docklands Museum (in Warehouse
No.1, London
Pass Accepted Here) also nearby.
St. Katharine Docks
Located close to Tower Bridge and the Tower of London, the St
Katharine Docks have a rich and varied history of trade and commerce dating back over 1,000 years. Although
their role as working docks have largely disappeared, the attractive waterside environment and good mixture of
shops/restaurants make it a popular tourist spot during the summer. Visitors to this historic site
will also find the famous Dickens Inn, the oldest (and
prettiest) building here, along with a fine assortment of swanky boats moored along the
dockside. For more information visit: www.skdocks.co.uk.
10 Downing Street, SW1, Website: www.number-10.gov.uk,
Tube: Westminster,
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Many people will be familiar with television pictures of successive British Prime Ministers going
into their official London residence at 10 Downing Street. With the building's famous black front
door guarded by a traditional London "Bobby", it has been home to the British premier since 1732
when the then incumbent, Robert Walpole was given No. 10 by King George II.
As well as containing private rooms for the Prime Minister and his/her family,
Downing Street has a large Cabinet room where senior members of the Government meet to discuss key
policy matters.
The Chancellor of the Exchequer (effectively the second most powerful position
in Government) traditionally lives next door at No. 11. However, as far fewer of the building's
rooms are used as offices, the current Prime Minister, Tony Blair has commandeered them for his
large family (including the newest arrival, little Leo). Chancellor Gordon Brown therefore makes do
with a 'small flat' above the offices at No. 10.
In 1989, following a bombing campaign by the IRA, wrought iron security gates
were installed at the entrance to Downing Street on the orders of Margaret Thatcher (iron gates for
the Iron Lady). Before this, it was actually possible for tourists to walk past No. 10 and along
Downing street.
However, as Britain's security services still perceive there to be a threat
from overseas militant/terrorist organisations (along with other less hostile pressure groups),
it's unlikely the gates will be removed for the foreseeable future.
EC4, Tube: Temple/Blackfriars/St Paul's,
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Until the mid-1980s Fleet Street had been the traditional home of literary and journalistic London
for well over 250 years. It began in 1500 when William Caxton's Dutch apprentice, Wynkyn de Worde,
moved the company's printing presses here from Westminster (in order to be nearer both the courts
and clergy). In 1702, London's first daily newspaper The Courant was issued from Fleet Street,
which in turn, spawned a trend that led to all the major national newspapers setting up offices and
presses in the area.
However, the dominance of the press on Fleet Street ended in 1985 when Eddie
Shah set up the now defunct colour tabloid Today using much cheaper (and more versatile) computer
technology. However, it was media-mogul Rupert Murdoch who finally undermined the printers' unions,
setting up his "Fortress Wapping" to the east of London (and taking The Times, News of the World
and The Sun with him). Despite a bitter struggle between the two parties, Murdoch triumphed, paving
the way for other publications to follow suit.
Today only Reuters remains, occupying the Edward Lutyens designed building at
no. 85. Also worth seeing are the former offices of The Daily Telegraph (at no. 135) and the Daily
Express (affectionately known as the "Black Lubyanka") - both fine Art Deco buildings in their own
right.
As well as being the former base for many London newspapers, Fleet Street is
also home to 'urban legend' Sweeney Todd (who is said to have set up a barbers shop just a short
walk away from the Royal Courts of Justice). Of course, the "demon barber" who's murderous acts
included turning anyone who wanted "a real close shave" into high-protein meat pies, was never
punished for his crimes. Must have been the trap door....
On a brighter note, just around the corner from Fleet Street is Gough Square.
At No. 17 stands the former home of Dr
Johnson, an 18th century scholar of fine repute, who is
credited with publishing the first definitive English Dictionary. Inside, the house's reconstructed
interiors include period furnishings and etchings of Johnson, along with a
classroom like attic
where six scribes helped him to compile the dictionary.
56 Upper Ground, SE1,
Website: www.gabrielswharf.co.uk,
Tube: Waterloo,
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Located between Oxo Tower and the Independent Television Centre, Gabriel's Wharf is a pleasant
collection of cafés, bars and boutiques (which also features a small craft market at
weekends).
Originally slated for redevelopment as an office block, the Wharf was instead
created following objections from local residents. This gave rise to a series of more public
natured projects, with shops, leisure areas and restaurants, headed by the Coin Street Community
Builders.
With small outlets making up the bulk of what's on offer, Gabriel's Wharf is
home to the ever-popular Gourmet Pizza Company as well as the London Bicycle Tour Company.
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