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London Sights and Attractions (Page 3)

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Dean's Yard

Broad Sanctuary, SW1, Tube: Westminster, Show Map
Adjacent to Westminster Abbey is Dean's Yard, a private, secluded square belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. As well as providing a useful short cut from the Abbey to Tufton Street, the square's picturesque medieval buildings house one of the most prestigious colleges in the country, the ancient Westminster School.

With origins dating back to 1179, (when Pope Alexander III instructed the Benedictine monks of Westminster Abbey to provide a charity school in the area), the church dependant school managed to survive the religious upheaval caused by Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries, eventually being awarded royal patronage by his daughter, Elizabeth I in 1560.

Buildings are not open to the public, although Dean's Yard does make for a pleasant detour if you're visiting Westminster Abbey.

Dickens' House

48 Doughty Street, WC1N 2LX, Tel: 020 7405 2127, Website: www.dickensmuseum.com, Open: 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun (last admission 4:30pm), Admission: £5 adults, £4 students and seniors, £3 children, £14 family ticket (2 adults and up to 5 children), Tube: Chancery Lane/Russell Square, Show Map
Although at one time or another, Charles Dickens lived at fifteen different properties in London, 48 Doughty Street is the only address to have survived intact (much less be turned into a museum). Having moved in after his marriage to Catherine Hogarth, it was here that famous works including 'Oliver Twist', 'Nicholas Nickleby' and the 'Pickwick Papers' were completed between 1837 and 1839.

Acquired by the Dickens fellowship in 1923 (who saved the building from demolition), it has now been restored to its original Regency style. With many of the rooms laid out exactly as they were then, the museum displays memorabilia such as manuscripts and first editions of his work, along with letters and the earliest known portrait of Dickens (painted by his aunt in 1830).

Docklands

DocklandsTube: Canada Water/Canary Wharf
As a port of strategic importance since Roman times, the London riverside has long been associated with the movement of goods such as tea, coffee and spices to other parts of the country (and indeed the rest of the world via the Thames Estuary). However, the success of the quays around London Bridge from the 16th century onwards, frequently meant there was little or no space for ships to unload their valuable cargos. And, although many shipping companies employed smaller boats to transfer goods upriver, the chaos ensured that significant quantities would either be stolen or delayed for unreasonable periods.

Even though laws were eventually introduced to ease congestion by controlling the movement and mooring of ships at the Port, the situation grew steadily worse as trade levels increased. It was only during the early 19th century that big players such as the West India Company finally decided to build enclosed cargo docks (with huge perimeter walls to deter thieves). By allowing ships to moor next to their own warehouses, the docks became a huge success, spawning a wave of similar docks including the famous East India dock. This period of growth continued right up to the early 1920s with docks such as the Royal Victoria, Albert and King George V all built further downstream.

However, after World War II, increased competition from the railways (combined with the use of larger cargo ships) meant trade at the docks began to dry up. In particular, the opening of the huge container port at Tilbury in the 1960s spelt the death-knell for London's traditional riverside docks, with the accelerated decline continuing until their eventual closure in the 70s and early 80s.

Docklands Light RailwayAlthough few politicians and business analysts thought it would be possible to regenerate the area, the boom period of the 80s served as a catalyst for the then Thatcher government to encourage investment here. With a single agency given far-reaching powers to regenerate the area (the London Docklands Development Corporation), incentives such as preferential business rates and 100% tax relief on capital expenditure paved the way for projects such as Canary Wharf, London City Airport and the Docklands Light Railway. Covering over eight square miles (and stretching over 6 miles from east to west) the area straddles parts of Southwark, Newham and Tower Hamlets.

For tourists, the most interesting areas to visit are:

Canary Wharf 

Canary Wharf(Website: www.canarywharf.co.uk) - Previously dominated by the 50-storey Canada Tower, the building now has stiff competition by way of two new skyscrapers, the HSBC building (8 Canada Square) and the Citi Group/Saloman Smith Barney building. Although both are actually eight storeys lower than Canada Tower, the height differential between them is barely noticeable from a distance.

As well as being the most well-known business area in London Docklands, Canary Wharf is also home to a number of well-laid out retail areas, including Cabot Place and Canada Place. With a striking resemblance to the underground shopping areas of Toronto (which is certainly no bad thing) each centre includes big name fashion stores such as Gap, French Connection and Hackett, as well as bars, restaurants and smaller book/music stores.

With a number of public open spaces, including Canada Square Park and Columbus Courtyard, it's also a pleasant place to explore, although at weekends (when most office staff aren't working) it can feel a little empty.

Good transport links also ensure that Canary Wharf is easily accessible either by the Docklands Light Railway (from Bank station) or the Underground's Jubilee line extension.

West India Quay 

Opened on the 27th August 1802, West India Quay was, at the time, the largest structure of its kind anywhere in the world. Established by Robert Milligan, Chairman of the West India Dock Company, the warehouses here were primarily used for sugar storage (right up until the 1930s). However, bombing during WWII reduced much of the site to rubble, with Warehouse No.2 (which is now Grade 1 listed) being one of the few buildings to survive intact. More recently, the quay has been converted into plush apartments, with shops and the new Docklands Museum (in Warehouse No.1, London Pass Accepted Here) also nearby.

St. Katharine Docks

St Katharine DocksLocated close to Tower Bridge and the Tower of London, the St Katharine Docks have a rich and varied history of trade and commerce dating back over 1,000 years. Although their role as working docks have largely disappeared, the attractive waterside environment and good mixture of shops/restaurants make it a popular tourist spot during the summer. Visitors to this historic site will also find the famous Dickens Inn, the oldest (and prettiest) building here, along with a fine assortment of swanky boats moored along the dockside. For more information visit: www.skdocks.co.uk.

Downing Street

Downing Street10 Downing Street, SW1, Website: www.number-10.gov.uk, Tube: Westminster, Show Map
Many people will be familiar with television pictures of successive British Prime Ministers going into their official London residence at 10 Downing Street. With the building's famous black front door guarded by a traditional London "Bobby", it has been home to the British premier since 1732 when the then incumbent, Robert Walpole was given No. 10 by King George II.

As well as containing private rooms for the Prime Minister and his/her family, Downing Street has a large Cabinet room where senior members of the Government meet to discuss key policy matters.

The Chancellor of the Exchequer (effectively the second most powerful position in Government) traditionally lives next door at No. 11. However, as far fewer of the building's rooms are used as offices, the current Prime Minister, Tony Blair has commandeered them for his large family (including the newest arrival, little Leo). Chancellor Gordon Brown therefore makes do with a 'small flat' above the offices at No. 10.

In 1989, following a bombing campaign by the IRA, wrought iron security gates were installed at the entrance to Downing Street on the orders of Margaret Thatcher (iron gates for the Iron Lady). Before this, it was actually possible for tourists to walk past No. 10 and along Downing street.

However, as Britain's security services still perceive there to be a threat from overseas militant/terrorist organisations (along with other less hostile pressure groups), it's unlikely the gates will be removed for the foreseeable future.

Fleet Street

EC4, Tube: Temple/Blackfriars/St Paul's, Show Map
Until the mid-1980s Fleet Street had been the traditional home of literary and journalistic London for well over 250 years. It began in 1500 when William Caxton's Dutch apprentice, Wynkyn de Worde, moved the company's printing presses here from Westminster (in order to be nearer both the courts and clergy). In 1702, London's first daily newspaper The Courant was issued from Fleet Street, which in turn, spawned a trend that led to all the major national newspapers setting up offices and presses in the area.

However, the dominance of the press on Fleet Street ended in 1985 when Eddie Shah set up the now defunct colour tabloid Today using much cheaper (and more versatile) computer technology. However, it was media-mogul Rupert Murdoch who finally undermined the printers' unions, setting up his "Fortress Wapping" to the east of London (and taking The Times, News of the World and The Sun with him). Despite a bitter struggle between the two parties, Murdoch triumphed, paving the way for other publications to follow suit.

Today only Reuters remains, occupying the Edward Lutyens designed building at no. 85. Also worth seeing are the former offices of The Daily Telegraph (at no. 135) and the Daily Express (affectionately known as the "Black Lubyanka") - both fine Art Deco buildings in their own right.

As well as being the former base for many London newspapers, Fleet Street is also home to 'urban legend' Sweeney Todd (who is said to have set up a barbers shop just a short walk away from the Royal Courts of Justice). Of course, the "demon barber" who's murderous acts included turning anyone who wanted "a real close shave" into high-protein meat pies, was never punished for his crimes. Must have been the trap door....

On a brighter note, just around the corner from Fleet Street is Gough Square. At No. 17 stands the former home of Dr Johnson, an 18th century scholar of fine repute, who is credited with publishing the first definitive English Dictionary. Inside, the house's reconstructed interiors include period furnishings and etchings of Johnson, along with a classroom like attic where six scribes helped him to compile the dictionary.

Gabriel's Wharf

Gabriel's Wharf56 Upper Ground, SE1, Website: www.gabrielswharf.co.uk, Tube: Waterloo, Show Map
Located between Oxo Tower and the Independent Television Centre, Gabriel's Wharf is a pleasant collection of cafés, bars and boutiques (which also features a small craft market at weekends).

Originally slated for redevelopment as an office block, the Wharf was instead created following objections from local residents. This gave rise to a series of more public natured projects, with shops, leisure areas and restaurants, headed by the Coin Street Community Builders.

With small outlets making up the bulk of what's on offer, Gabriel's Wharf is home to the ever-popular Gourmet Pizza Company as well as the London Bicycle Tour Company.

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