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London Sights and Attractions (Page 2)

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Changing of the Guard
 
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Carnaby Street

Carnaby StreetCarnaby Street, W1, Website: www.carnaby.co.uk, Tube: Oxford Circus, Show Map
Forever associated with London in the swinging sixties, Carnaby Street was not only the centre for progressive young fashion and culture during that era, but undoubtedly the coolest part of town too.

After a period of sorry decline in the 70s and 80s (when the place was chock full of tacky souvenir shops), the street has enjoyed somewhat of a renaissance over recent years. With the arrival of a number of big brand designer outlets, as well as an influx trendy cafes and bars, there's a tangible buzz to the place again.

Best visited at lunchtimes and weekends, Carnaby Street can now be regarded as a major London tourist attraction in its own right. Moreover, it's one that we recommend you visit.

Cenotaph

CenotaphWhitehall SW1, Tube: Westminster, Show Map
A sombre memorial to the dead of both World Wars (and major conflicts since) the Cenotaph stands in the middle of Whitehall.

Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, it serves as the focal point on Remembrance Day (the second Sunday of November), when the Queen, Prime Minister, politicians, visiting dignitaries and members of the nation's armed forces place wreaths and red poppies at its base.

Assembling to the right of the monument, those in attendance wait for Big Ben to strike eleven, with the King's Troop, Royal Horse Artillery (based at Horse Guards Parade) then firing a cannon to mark the commencement of the 2 minutes of silence. In tribute to those who fell, "The Last Post" is played by the buglers of the Royal Marines before attendees began laying wreaths led by the Her Majesty The Queen and senior members of the Royal Family.

Changing of the Guard

Changing of the GuardBuckingham Palace (11.30am daily Apr-Jun. Alternate days Jul-Aug). Also Horse Guards (11am Mon-Sat) and St. James's Palace (same schedule as for Buckingham Palace), Tube: Victoria, Show Map
As a spectacle for anyone visiting London, the Changing of the Guard is a real highlight (as the crowds who gather to watch the brief spectacle will confirm). The Guard, consisting of three officers and 40 men (fewer when the Queen is not in residence at Buckingham Palace) makes its way from Birdcage Walk at 10:45am, proceeding along the Mall and arriving at the palace just before half-past eleven. Resplendent in their ceremonial scarlet coats and bearskins (hats) the Old Guard hands over duty to the New Guard in the palace forecourt, amidst the frantic noise of clicking camera shutters.

The ceremony is repeated, albeit in a slightly different form at Horse Guards and with fewer troops (this time by the Household Cavalry who mount the Guard after riding along the Mall).

Chinatown

ChinatownGerrard St, W1 (and surrounding neighbourhood), Tube: Leicester Square, Show Map
With development of the area now known as Chinatown borne directly out of the destruction caused by Great Fire of London in 1666 (when over 100,000 people were made homeless) it was physician and economist Nicholas Barbon who encouraged renewal of the area having acquired a building lease from Lord Gerrard in 1677. Although previously an affluent part of the city, by and large the area failed to regain its previous status (despite best intentions), becoming increasingly rundown by the mid-18th century. As a consequence, rents in Soho were ridiculously low, which in turn, helped to attract successive waves of French, Italian and Jewish immigrants from Europe.

It was during the late 18th century that the first Chinese settled in London, having been employed on ships owned by the East India Company. With a small number eventually establishing a community around the docks at Limehouse, the seeds were sown (albeit in a different location) for the Chinatown that exists in London today.

Surprisingly, it was not until the 1950s that Chinatown (as we know it now) became firmly rooted in Soho. With the Limehouse area of East London largely destroyed by German bombers during WWII (and because of the decline of the laundry industry), London's Chinese population were forced to seek new jobs, as well as an alternative base from which to expand. Although it was a desperate situation for many families, their plight was helped (in no small part) by British soldiers who had returned from the war in the Far East with a new found appetite for Chinese cuisine.

As Soho property prices were still very cheap, the area around Gerrard Street became popular with Chinese already in Britain, as well as new immigrants from Hong Kong. In recent years, Chinatown has been further transformed into a major tourist attraction by pedestrianising Gerrard Street and installing Chinese style street furniture (including the area's unique pagoda style telephone boxes). What's more, following the handover of Hong Kong to Communist China, this vibrant part of town has further expanded with a fresh wave of immigrants having now settled here.

ChinatownAlong with scores of Cantonese and Szechuan restaurants, Chinatown has a number of supermarkets selling exotic looking cooking ingredients (as well as staples such as noodles, oils and vegetables).

Although almost always busy, Sunday in particular is a good day to visit, as the area comes alive with locals heading off for their weekly dim sum feasts. Among the other retail premises in Newport Place and Gerrard Street are craft and bookshops, along with outlets specialising in traditional Chinese medicine. 

Cleopatra's Needle

Embankment, WC2, Tube: Charing Cross, Show Map
The granite obelisk that stands on Victoria Embankment is London's oldest monument, dating back to 1475 BC. Originally erected in ancient Egypt's Heliopolis (which was located just north of today's Cairo), it was later moved to Alexandria following Cleopatra's death, where it stood for many hundreds of years.

In more recent times, the 60ft high, 180 tonne monument, was given as a gift to Britain by the Turkish Viceroy of Egypt in 1819. However, because of its sheer size, the task of moving it to Britain was not undertaken until 1877.

Loaded onto a pontoon, the obelisk was towed back to England by ship via the Bay of Biscay. Despite the pontoon breaking free during a violent storm en-route (in which the vessel almost sank and several seamen died), it eventually reached London in January 1878.

Although originally earmarked to stand outside the Houses of Parliament, the obelisk was finally erected on the Thames Embankment alongside two Victorian sphinxes. Underneath the monument is a time capsule, which amongst other things, contains a daily London newspaper, several bibles, a copy of Bradshaw's railway guide, and twelve pictures of the Britain's most attractive women.

County Hall

County HallYork Road, SE1, Tube: Westminster, Show Map
The South Bank's impressive County Hall was originally built to house the London County Council (LCC) following a move from offices in Trafalgar Square. The final design was actually chosen by the Council's Architects Department and the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) following an open competition in which over 150 plans were submitted. The building's elegant Edwardian style design, complete with its colonnaded central structure, was actually the work of a young architect named Ralph Knott (who had previously only worked on far smaller projects).

Although officially opened in 1922 by King George V and Queen Mary, construction of the building had not been fully completed. Indeed, as building works were delayed both prior to (and after) this date, County Hall was not finished until 1933.

One of the biggest difficulties faced during construction happened early on when excavations revealed the remains of a Roman boat beneath the mud (believed to have dated back to the third century). In addition, the building's original dimensions had to be altered to allow for extra LCC personnel (simply because the building works had taken so long to complete). Most unfortunate of all, Knott died after a short illness in 1929, meaning that he was unable to witness the final result of his efforts.

County Hall served as home for London's local government (renamed in 1968 as the GLC) until 1986, when the left-wing Ken Livingstone, or "Red Ken" led Council was abolished by the Thatcher government. Of course, Mr Livingstone has had the last laugh being elected Mayor of London in 2000. Although the building sat empty for the next seven years, it was subsequently sold to Japanese company, Shirayama Shokusan for £60 million.

Today, the building houses a Travel Inn, the London Marriott Hotel County Hall, a Namco Entertainment Station, the London Aquarium, London Eye ticket centre, Dalí Universe (a museum devoted to the famous Catalonian artist) and several restaurants.

Covent Garden

Covent GardenCovent Garden, WC2, Website: www.coventgardenmarket.co.uk, Tube: Covent Garden, Show Map
Undoubtedly one of London's liveliest and most chic areas, Covent Garden has a number of open-air cafés, stylish shops and bars centred around the old piazza and central market area.

Although there are few clues as to the area's history, the origins of Covent Garden are firmly rooted in medieval times, when a local 'convent garden' supplied fruit and vegetables to Westminster Abbey. The impressive covered central market was originally designed for this same purpose, although it now contains an array of small shops selling antiques, books, and arts and crafts.

Flanked on the piazza's north side by the recently enlarged and refurbished Royal Opera House, the central market area is also a popular venue for the many street entertainers who perform for the hordes of tourists that descend here during the summer months.

To the south are Jubilee Market (selling antiques, clothes and bric-a-brac) and the child-friendly London Transport Museum. Slightly further afield, the former warehouses on Neal Street prove to be an intriguing diversion, while the fashionable (if a little contrived) collection of health food shops, art galleries and restaurants of Neal's Yard are also worth a visit.

Cutty Sark

Cutty SarkKing William Walk, Greenwich, SE10 9HT, Tel: 020 8858 3445, Website: www.cuttysark.org.uk, Nearest Rail: Cutty Sark (DLR), Show Map
This grand three-master sailing ship is the last survivor of the China clippers that used to transport their valuable cargos back to Britain from the far reaches of the Empire.

Designed by Hercules Linton, the Cutty Sark was launched from Dumbarton, Scotland in 1869. Among all of the clippers built, it was one of the fastest despite a gross weight of over 950 tonnes. With dimensions being almost the same as rival clipper Thermopylae (which she was designed to beat) the ship managed a return trip to Australia in just 72 days.

Made from teak on iron, the vessel (which has a 280ft frame) was previously exhibited in dry-dock by the Greenwich Foot Tunnel. In recent years, however, owing to its age and the inevitable decay of materials used in its construction, a groundbreaking project began to conserve the fabric of the ship, as well as maintaining the Cutty Sark's status as a world class tourist attraction. In part, this will be achieved by raising and suspending the vessel in a Kevlar web, thereby helping to preserve its shape and enable visitors to walk underneath the famous ship.

A huge setback to the project occurred, however, on the morning of 21 May 2007 - just a few months after works began - when the vessel caught fire and burned for several hours before finally being brought under control. With the resultant damage estimated to have added £5-10 million to the previously budgeted £25 million cost, the Cutty Sark Trust has been fortunate in that, despite the decks being unsalvageable, both bow and stern sections were left relatively unscathed. With work continuing to conserve the ship (despite it technically being a crime scene as the outbreak of the fire remains a mystery), a separate visitor exhibition features a new film presentation, a display of the ship's decorative figurehead 'Nannie' (an angry witch from Robert Burns's poem 'Tam O'Shanter'), a re-creation of the master's saloon, interactive exhibits and live video views of restoration work being carried out.

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