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Walbrook Street, EC2, Tube: Mansion House,
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As the official residence of the Lord Mayor of London, Mansion House has a suitably fitting
neo-classical design, complete with a Corinthian style portico and elaborate exterior plasterwork.
Designed by the architect George Dance in 1753, it took a total of thirteen years to build,
whereupon the first Lord Mayor, Sir Crispin Gascoigne took up residence.
As well as providing the Lord Mayor with living quarters and office space,
Mansion House (which is built around an internal courtyard), serves as the venue for sumptuous
ceremonial banquets. The magnificent Egyptian Hall, so named because it closely resembles the style
of those used in Egypt (during Roman times) is most famously used for the Chancellor of the
Exchequer's annual speech to the 'great and good' of the City's financial
organisations.
However, despite its unquestioned splendour, the only opportunity to see
Mansion House is on a periodic pre-arranged tour (as the building is normally not open to the
public).
Marble Arch (and Speakers' Corner)
Park Lane, W1, Tube: Marble Arch,
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Originally located in front of Buckingham Palace, John Nash's Marble Arch was intended to be the
building's main entrance (and solely for royal use). However, as enlargement to the Palace in 1851
effectively made it a redundant "White Elephant", the arch was moved to Hyde Park where today, it
continues to serve as a gateway between Bayswater and Marylebone. Although Marble Arch now stands
rather unceremoniously on a traffic island in one of the busiest (and most polluted) parts of town,
convention still dictates that only senior members of the royal family, the Royal Horse Artillery
and King's Troop are allowed to pass underneath the arch. With three archways of Corinthian
columns, it still makes for an impressive sight, although the meaning behind the arch's sculpted
reliefs, which represent England, Scotland and Ireland, are somewhat lost amidst the chaos and
traffic fumes.
More intriguing however, is the history of the area that surrounds the
triumphal arch. For it was here that London's old Tyburn Gallows stood. With a history dating back
to the 12th century, Tyburn was the hanging gallery of choice for the city's notorious criminals,
petty thieves and political prisoners. The name, which is derived from a local brook which flowed
into the Thames, became synonymous with large-scale public executions right up until 1783.
The permanent gallows - called the Tyburn Tree - provided a most gruesome form
of popular entertainment, attracting all manner of spectators, as well as stall-holders (who no
doubt shifted early forms of London souvenirs). Indeed, when Tyburn first came into existence
hanging was just one of the "roster options" available for executions. Victims could either be
hung, drawn and quartered (meaning they were disemboweled while still alive) or be noosed with
fires lit beneath them. Once executed, cadavers were de-clothed and often used for anatomical
studies by local surgeons.
Interestingly, the proceedings at Tyburn gave rise to the popular phrase "one
for the road" which refers to the practice of allowing a condemned man to have one last drink at
any ale house en-route. Transported to the gallows by wagon, it was policy for one of the guards
minding the prisoner to remain in charge of the cart. So as they were not allowed to drink, the
saying "on the wagon" also came into being!
Located on the north-eastern fringe of Hyde Park (just next
to Marble Arch), Speakers' Corner is the
famous spot where soapbox orators sound-off on all manner of topics, hecklers mock and bystanders
look on in amusement. Made up largely of fringe groups, political extremists and nut jobs, this
Sunday morning tradition is nowadays also sadly hijacked by religious zealots. And, while it
certainly makes for an interesting visit, some of the opinions voiced are not only far out, but
occasionally downright scary.
Monument Street, EC3, Tel: 020 7626 2717, Website:
www.towerbridge.org.uk,
Tube: Monument,
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Built to commemorate the Great Fire of London in 1666, the 202ft (62m) high column
was jointly
designed by Sir Christopher Wren and Robert Hookes between 1671 and 1677.
With the fire having allegedly started on 2 September 1666 (in a small bakery
on Pudding Lane), it raged out of control through the narrow streets, all but destroying the City
of London. At the top of the column is a flaming copper urn which symbolises the tragic events of
the fire, while for more energetic visitors, Monument also has a viewing gallery. Reached by a
spiral staircase of 311 steps, the summit offers glorious views of the City albeit after a tiring
climb!
Monument is open to the public from 9am to 5.30pm Monday-Friday and 2pm to
5.40pm at weekends (during the summer). For the remainder of the year, the attraction is open from
9am to 3.40pm Monday-Saturday. Admission price is currently £2 for adults and
£1 for
children between the ages of 5 and 15. However, in the interests of safety, we recommend that
children under 5 do not venture up to the viewing gallery. London
Pass Accepted Here.
EC4, Tel: 020 7248 3277, Tube: St Paul's,
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As London's Central Criminal Court, the Old Bailey has long been the place where the country's most
serious legal cases are heard. Although first established in 1539, it was only with the passing of
the Central Criminal Court Act in 1834 that the Old Bailey adopted is current role, when judges
were given the power to "to inquire of, hear and determine all treasons, murders, felonies and
misdemeanours". And while then, the court's jurisdiction covered only London, Middlesex, Kent, Essex
and Surrey, it now deals with nearly all high-profile UK trials.
Until it was demolished in 1902, the site was also home to Newgate Prison
where convicted felons were beheaded or hanged in the street. Interestingly enough, it was Newgate
that replaced Tyburn Gallows (see Marble Arch above) as London's principal public-execution site.
Eventually, because of the sheer number of locals who turned out for this gruesome spectator sport
(when acts of violence and robbery also routinely took place), hangings were carried out within the
prison's walls.
Today, of course, although there are no hangings, you can watch proceedings at
the Old Bailey from the visitors' gallery. Some reminders of the site's historic past are still in
evidence though, as judges enter the court carrying posies. Although only a ritual today, it was
necessary in the days of Newgate Prison to help disguise the smell of rotting corpses.
Website: www.oxfordstreet.co.uk,
Tube: Marble Arch/Bond Street/Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court
Road,
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Synonymous with downtown shopping in London, Oxford Street is so named because it follows the path
of an old Roman road to the city of Oxford. Long associated with trade, the thoroughfare's
reputation as a fashionable shopping district grew significantly during the mid-18th century. And,
following the introduction of the Tube in 1900, further development took place with wealthy
merchants and entrepreneurs opening stores such as Waring and Gillow, Debenhams (then Debenham and
Freebody) and the landmark Selfridges.
While today, Regent Street and New Bond Street are both considered more
upmarket, Oxford Street nonetheless has a number of department stores, together with short-lease
shops selling souvenirs, dodgy fashions and bankrupted stock.
And, although C & A may have disappeared, big name brands are still much
in evidence with John Lewis, Gap,
HMV, the Virgin
Megastore, Niketown and Top Shop all gunning for
trade. With The Plaza shopping mall (120 Oxford Street) also housing smaller speciality shops, it makes for a decent,
if slightly tiring shopping experience.
Most shops in Oxford Street now open seven days a week, although if you're an
early-bird shopper be warned that few (if any) start trading at 9am. In addition, late night
shopping on Thursdays sees most stores open until 8pm.
Always busy, it also continues to be a famous draw for tourists, attracting
over 8.5 million foreign visitors each year. However, come the festive season and you'll not only
encounter crowds but the famous (albeit usually lacklustre) Oxford Street illuminations. Of much
greater interest are the window displays of the major department stores (particularly Selfridges)
who go to town in creating lavish, specially themed displays. Of course, although children are
invariably charmed, parents tend to get short tempered amidst the busy throng of Christmas
shoppers.
SW1, Tube: Charing Cross/Green Park,
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First laid out in 1660, this busy London thoroughfare was originally called Catherine Street (named
after Queen Catherine of Braganza), although it later became known as Pall Mall because of the game
palle maille - a cross between croquet and golf - which was played here during the reign of Charles
II.
Most famously associated with gentlemen's clubs of the late 18th and early 19
centuries, these bastions of Englishness, chauvinism and snobbery are largely long gone, although a
few (such as The Reform Club and the
Carlton Club) remain.
Pall Mall is also widely credited as being the first gas-lit street in London,
with King George III's birthday celebrations of 1807 heralding the introduction of lampposts and
modern day street lighting.
Today, however, Pall Mall has exchanged the gas-lit lamps of old for heavy
traffic, diesel fumes and black dust. Progress indeed...
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