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For the Budapest walk listed below you may/will need:
A decent map of the city (see our choice in essentials m2o)
A valid metro, tram or bus ticket for travel to Deák tér. We recommended the Budapest Card.
Sensible walking shoes and a good sense of direction!
Walking Tour Two - The Castle District, Time: 4-6 hours (excluding refreshment breaks), Starting Point: Roosevelt tér (Pest)
Note: We feel obliged to mention that this walk is a tiring one if you spend any length of time in the museums and galleries listed. Although we've quoted a duration of approx. 4-6 hours it may well be easier (depending upon the amount of time you spend in the Royal Palace) to split the walk into two days sightseeing. If you choose this option, it's best to tour the Royal Palace on day one, before exploring the remainder of the Castle District on day two. For those with young families, day two should be considered as the more child-friendly option.
Our starting point for walk two is Roosevelt tér which stands at the foot of the Lánchíd (Chain bridge) on the Pest embankment. From here, it's easy to gauge the scale and grandeur of Castle Hill whilst also providing an opportunity to cross the city's most beautiful bridge.
Originally built between 1842-1849, the Lánchid was the first permanent span across the Danube between Buda and Pest. Designed by English engineer, Adam Clark, the bridge's first use was to allow the Hungarian Army of Independence to retreat from the advancing Austrians in 1849. The Austrians then tried to blow up the bridge with explosives, but luckily the charges failed to detonate.
Sadly almost 100 years later, the German army succeeded in collapsing the centre span during fierce fighting towards the end of World War II. The bridge was quickly rebuilt and has been periodically renovated since then (which makes driving in Budapest an even greater chore as the bridge usually has to be closed).
Arriving in Buda at Clark ádám tér, the entrance to the lower terminus of the Budavári Sikló (cable car) should be clearly visible on the left hand side of the roundabout. Although you can use the Király lépső (steps) to make the ascent, the Sikló is by far the most tranquil (and fun) way up to Castle Hill and the Royal Palace. Originally opened in 1870, its main function was in providing cheap transport for local workers. Fortune has, however, not always favoured the two little cable cars. Wrecked by German shelling in 1945, the Sikló was left in a state of disrepair until being fully restored in 1986.
Today's replica carriages, which use electricity rather than steam power, complete the steep ascent to Szent György tér in just under one minute. The comparative quiet inside the cars contrasts strikingly with the busy view across the Danube to downtown Pest.
Just next to the upper terminal of the Sikló is the magnificent Turul Statue. This mythical Hungarian eagle, cast in bronze with wings outstretched, is said to have sired Álmos the father of Árpad, who led the Magyar conquest of the Carpathian Basin in the 9th century.
Before heading to the southern section of the Royal Palace, we make our way down the nearby stairs to view the equestrian statue of Eugene of Savoy, commander of the army that liberated Hungary from Turkish rule in 1686. The story goes that the statue, which was originally commissioned by the townsfolk of Zenta, lay unfinished until Hauszmann, who had been given the task of enlarging the palace, persuaded King-Emperor Franz Joseph to raise funds to secure its future along this part of the Castle wall.
The Royal Palace itself, which dominates the southern skyline of the Castle District, shares a similar history to that of the nearby Mátyás Templom, namely one of upheaval and reconstruction. The building that stands today is a mock historic structure, comprising of original features from the 17th, 18th, 19th and 20th centuries.
The first royal residence on Castle Hill is said to have been constructed by Béla IV after the Mongol Invasion of 1241. Later, new sections were added by the Angevin kings before a much larger Gothic palace was established under the reign of Sigismund of Luxembourg (1387-1437). Considered even at this time to be one of the most beautiful palaces in Europe, the golden era of the palace complex came during the reign of King Matthias (1451-90). Widely seen as being one of the most extravagant, beautiful and important Renaissance buildings of the time, nobleman, scholars and Renaissance artists would journey here from all over Europe, encouraged (in no small part) by the prospect of receiving lavish treatment and hospitality from Queen Beatrice.
Despite suffering only minor structural damage during the lengthy period of Turkish occupation, it was completely destroyed by the pan-European Christian army which liberated Buda in 1686. During the early part of the 18th century, work commenced on a much smaller Baroque Palace, although by 1779 its overall size had increased significantly.
Less than a century later, the Palace was damaged again, this time during the 1848-49 War of Independence. The subsequent reconstruction work, which finished in 1904, more than doubled the size of the Palace from the original Gothic structure. Yet this was not the final episode in the Palace's turbulent history.
During World War II the building served as the command post for German occupying forces. In the final months of the war, the advancing Red Army besieged the Palace and, amidst fierce fighting, completely gutted the building. The present post war reconstruction, which includes Baroque and Gothic elements, now houses the Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest History Museum and the National Széchenyi Library.
We'll first take a tour of the Hungarian National Gallery which will almost certainly be the highlight for art lovers. Housed in wings B, C, and D of Buda's Royal Palace, the gallery is made up of six permanent exhibitions. However, to do any tour of the gallery justice, you will need at least three hours to cover all three levels.
On the ground floor, the exhibition opens with displays of stone objects discovered during the post-war reconstruction of the Royal Palace. The most prominent and important being the sculpture depicting King Béla III's head which dates back to around 1200 AD. A second section is made up of Gothic and Renaissance artifacts collected from various regions around Hungary. Highlights include the lavishly decorated 15th and 16th century winged altarpieces (of which the wonderful St. Anne's is the most elaborate).
Elsewhere, some of the most important 19th and 20th century paintings in Hungary make up the remainder of the collection. Highlights are Gyula Benczur's depiction of The Recapture of Buda Castle in 1686 and László Hunyadi's Farewell along with paintings by the country's most revered artist Mihály Munkácsy which include Dusty Road, The Yawning Traveller and Woman Carrying Brushwood. More recent works by 20th cenury artists such as Tivadar Kosztka Csontváry and Lajos Guláscy complete a rich, diverse collection. Not to be missed.
Next up is the Budapest History Museum which charts the history of both the Royal Palace and Budapest. The Museum's permanent exhibitions give good insight into the medieval cities of Buda and Pest, along with displays of Gothic sculptures and remains from archeological excavations.
Before making our way to the northern part of the Castle District, we'll also take a look at the National Széchenyi Library. Taking up several floors of the Royal Palace, this vast library is a mecca for scholars, students and anyone else wanting information on Hungary. Every book published in the country is catalogued and placed here, along with a mind boggling collection of journals, newspapers and archive documents. If you're conducting research, then it's probably best to ask for help in finding titles. So long as you bring suitable ID (preferably a passport) the librarians (some of whom speak English) are happy to oblige. As you can imagine though, finding anything in a library this size does takes time. That said, if Count Ferenc Széchényi were around today, no doubt he would be proud that the library which bears his name is an unparalleled centre for learning about Hungary.
En-route to Szentháromság tér we pass the Castle Theatre (Várszínház). Originally constructed as a Carmelite church in 1736, the building was later redesigned as a theatre following the dissolution of the order by Joseph II in 1784. Although for a short time, it was used by a German theatre company, performances were given in Hungarian from 1790 onwards. Despite being heavily damaged during World War II, the theatre retains its original baroque façade, although the wooden gallery which survived right up until 1924, has since been replaced by a much smaller one made from marble and concrete. Surprisingly, the theatre was not renovated until the late-seventies, before finally re-opening to the public in 1978.
Arriving at the Castle District's most popular tourist area Szentháromság tér (a market place in medieval times which is the highest point of Castle Hill) we find the Holy Trinity Column. Treated as just another snapshot by the coach loads of visitors that descend here during the summer, the solemn meaning behind the Baroque style Holy Trinity column is often lost amidst the frantic clicking of camera shutters (the column was built by Buda's Council in the early part of the 18th century to serve as a lasting memorial to those who died in the devastating plague of 1691). At its foot, biblical King David is depicted praying for an end to the plague, while on the main body of the column, a multitude of saints and cherubs can be seen under the golden Holy Trinity.
Also at the heart of the square you'll find the The Matthias Church. Officially named as the Church of Our Lady, it has been popularly named after King Matthias Corvinus (Good King Mátyás) who ordered the construction of its original southern tower. In many respects, the 700 hundred year history of the church serves as a symbol (or perhaps a reminder for Hungarians) of the city's rich, yet often tragic history. Not only was the church the scene of several coronations, including that of Charles IV in 1916 (the last Habsburg king) it was also the site for King Mátyás' two weddings (the first to Catherine of Podiebrad and, after her death, to Beatrice of Aragon).
Any Hungarian historian of note will tell you that the darkest period in the church's history was the century and a half of Turkish occupation. The vast majority of its ecclesiastical treasures were shipped off to Pozsony (Bratislava) and following the capture of Buda in 1541 the church spent life as the city's main mosque. To add insult to injury, ornate frescoes that previously ordained the walls of the building were whitewashed and interior furnishings were stripped out.
Although following Turkish expulsion in 1686 an attempt was made to restore the church in the Baroque style, historical evidence shows that the work was largely unsatisfactory. It was not until the great architectural boom towards the end of the 19th century that the building regained much of its former splendour. The architect responsible for this work was Frigyes Schulek.
Not only was the church restored to its original 13th century plan but a number of early original Gothic elements were uncovered. By also adding new motifs of his own (such as the diamond pattern roof tiles and gargoyles laden spire) Schulek ensured that the work, when finished, would be highly controversial. Today however, Schulek's restoration provides visitors with one of the most prominent and characteristic features of Budapest's cityscape.
Inside, visitors tend to head straight for the Ecclesiastical Art museum which begins in the medieval crypt and leads up to the St Stephen Chapel. The gallery contains a number of sacred relics and medieval stone carvings, along with replicas of the Hungarian royal crown and coronation jewels.
Before exploring the chocolate box architecture of the Fishermen's Bastion, it's time for a refreshment stop. Tucked away down Szentháromság utca is the famous Ruszwurm café. This small, but charming pastry shop began life as a coffee house way back in 1824. The fine Biedermeier interior, together with the sheer variety of mouth-watering cakes on display makes the Ruszwurm well-worth a visit (although you'll need the best part of an hour to spare if you plan to sit inside). If the Ruszwurm proves too busy, then try the wacky Café Miró further down the street (where it meets Úri utca). With an interior inspired by the works of Catalan artist Joan Miró, the jazzy, surreal décor makes for a laid back atmosphere, with a clientele mainly made up of young, well-heeled, tourists and locals.
Returning to Szentháromság tér, we'll now take a look at The Fishermen's Bastion. Designed by Frigyes Schluek, the castle is made up of seven round towers - each one symbolising the seven Magyar tribes that effectively gave rise to the nation a thousand years earlier.
Almost fairytale like in appearance, its decorative white rampart and flowing staircases stretch alongside the eastern front of the Mátyás Templom. According to tradition, the area directly behind the church housed a local fish market during medieval times - hence the name of the Bastion. During the 18th-century, the Guild of Fisherman are also said to have traditionally defended this part of the castle wall.
Heading along down Hess András tér we now pass by the Hilton Hotel. Although Béla Pintér's mid-70s design is now showing its age, what sets this hotel apart from others in the city, is that the remains of a 13th-century Dominican church and the wall of a 17th-century Jesuit college have been successfully integrated into the design. The Dominican courtyard, which sits between the two main wings, is occasionally used for open-air operas during the summer.
Rather than venture down Táncsics Mihály utca, we'll first make a detour down Fortuna utca to visit the Museum of Commerce and Catering. The old 18th-century inn at No. 4 Fortuna utca now houses a small but interesting museum dedicated to the history of confectionery and pastry shops. If you have small children, then this perhaps, is a better place to visit than some of the other more austere museums on Castle Hill.
Retracing our steps to Táncsics Mihály utca, we find the Museum of Music History. Set in the magnificent Baroque surroundings of the Erdődy Palace, the Museum charts the history of musical life in Budapest from the 18th to 20th centuries. A section of the exhibition is devoted to the life and works of composer Béla Bartók, while early Hungarian musical instruments are also on display.
At the end of the street is Vienna Gate Square (Bécsi Kapu tér). Despite being dominated by the huge National Archive building (Samu Pecz 1913-20), there are some fine examples of Baroque and Rococo architecture to heighten the appeal of the square at No's. 5 and 6 and 7. Most famous is the house at No.7 - the author Thomas Mann is said to have stayed here during several visits to Hungary between 1935 and 1936.
Although the gate itself is a replica of the 16th-century original, it nonetheless marks the traditional starting point to Budapest's Castle District. The historic importance of the gate is reflected even in everyday life, as a popular saying amongst parents of cheeky children is "your mouth is as big as the Vienna Gate". Unfortunately though, it doesn't appear to deter more adventurous youngsters from climbing on the gate during the summer...
Before ending the walk at the Military History Museum on Tóth árpád sétány, you may find two other nearby sights of interest. The Mary Magdelene Tower on Kapisztrán tér is sole remnant of the Franciscan church that stood here in the 13th century. Both the chancel and nave of the church were destroyed during allied bombing raids in World War II and although the tower itself is largely a post-war reconstruction, the building has a rich turbulent history. For a short time, under Turkish occupation, it continued to hold Christian services, with Protestants using the nave and Catholics the chancel. Eventually, it too was converted into a mosque, although following the expulsion of the Turks in 1686, it reverted back to a church in which Franz I was crowned here in 1872. Later on, it served as the garrison church for men stationed at the neighbouring army barracks.
Just around the corner on Úri utca, the Telephone Museum is a small exhibition housed in a former telephone exchange. Centred around a fully working antique switchboard, the exhibition charts the history of the telephone using various interactive displays.
Finally we head back up the street to the Military History Museum. Situated in a former municipal army barracks, it houses a comprehensive collection of weaponry and war memorabilia housed on two main floors. Open to the public since 1937 and restored after World War II, the museum has permanent collections covering the 1848 revolution and War of Independence, both World Wars and the 1956 uprising, together with more modern displays showing machinery, guns and other military equipment used by the Hungarian army. On the ground floor, shells of different calibres and sizes line the museum's corridors, while above, images of engineers building pontoon bridges, soldiers hauling gun carriages and weary infantry men in the trenches stare out at you.
On the staircase leading to the first floor, there are two lovely stain glass windows depicting Buda in 1493 and Budavár Bevetele in 1849. Turn right and you'll find exhibits on military history during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, including uniforms worn by the Hungarian Hussar regiment.
The are also large display cases featuring models and battle scenes from World War II, although the addition of a Huey helicopter (as used in Vietnam) was somewhat puzzling. The displays devoted to the tragic events of the 1956 uprising are the most poignant by far.
One nice touch is the WW2 American helmet which sits on a clear glass case on the ground floor landing. A slot has been cut in the top so that visitors can make a donation to the Museum. The entrance, which is from Tóth árpád sétány (promenade) also has a fine lookout over Buda's western suburbs.
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